Thinking about giving sport climbing a try but not sure what routes to start on? Then you’re in the right place. It’s a thrilling way to challenge yourself and enjoy the great outdoors!
Even if you’ve just started climbing, it’s important that you feel comfortable, so getting friendly with the top ropes at an indoor climbing centre is a great place to start. Once you’re feeling confident, it’s time to get yourself outside on some ‘real rocks’ and become an independent climber. Ensure you have all the right equipment, including a good pair of climbing shoes, and you’re ready.
About Sport Climbing
Sport climbing is an exciting form of outdoor climbing that involves routes with pre-installed, fixed anchors, allowing climbers to tackle routes with confidence.
Unlike traditional (trad) climbing, which relies on placing removable gear, sport climbing offers a more straightforward approach, enabling climbers to focus on their movement and technique. This makes it simpler than trad climbing, providing an excellent way to develop your skills and enjoy the thrill of scaling natural features in beautiful outdoor settings.
Why Portland is a Top Location for Beginners
Portland in Dorset is one of the UK’s top climbing destinations for all abilities. The limestone rocks offer a variety of crags for you to explore and try. We’ve selected a few of the best beginner routes in the area for you below. All these locations are suitable for wind direction, but as always, make sure to look at the forecast before heading out. Once you’ve built up experience on these easier routes, you can move on to attempting harder climbs.
Here are a few of our favourite beginner climbing routes in the area to get you started:
Fallen Slab
The Fallen Slab route at Blacknor Beach is renowned for its unique slab climbing style. The route features a mix of technical moves and is graded around 5.10 to 5.11, making it accessible for climbers with some experience.
Triple Slabs
The Triple Slabs area is also at Blacknor Beach and is ideal for both sport and trad climbing. This section features three large slabs facing the sea, with the middle slab being the largest and forming a deep gully that conceals the routes until you’re right on top of them. While the main slab is non-tidal, the seaward face is slightly affected by the tides, making it essential for climbers to plan accordingly.
The Bower
The Bower is conveniently situated directly in front of the trail that winds through The Cuttings. Nestled above a secluded raised ledge, this area boasts excellent low-grade routes on well-bolted rock, making it an ideal spot for beginners and those looking to build their confidence.
Get in touch for any more information on these routes, and let us know if you give them a go!
📌 Top Tip: Check the humidity before you go—high humidity (above 80%) can make the rocks feel greasy and slippery, which isn’t so fun to climb!
